Framebuilding 101 Fork Mods with Paul Brodie the Fussy Framebuilder

0 Comments 10:59 am

go we all rock hi I'm Paul Brodie and this 
is my shop welcome in these uncertain times   I thought that I would show you what goes on 
in my shop we've got a gator blade fork here   this was made back a long time ago in the 
80s and it's got few break bosses on it and   the owner of the fork wants the candy bosses so 
we're going from obsolete to obsolete because   everybody's got a disparate now it seems 
so the first step is to get the bosses off   what I'm gonna do is to scrape off some paint 
because when I start to put heat on here when   there's paint I can't see what's going on so I 
need to do a little scraping exactly a little   hard to scrape off before this powder coat and 
powerto is harder than weapon now as I recall   on these break bosses these are silver so lid 
on so that means that it's kind of a low heat   so they should come off pretty easy we'll find 
out okay I have paper towels I have water what   I want to do is to stop a lot of heat going into 
the crown because I got to put heat on the bosses   and melt them off so what I'm gonna do paper 
towel and put it on the crown I'll take some   water I'll make it wet this a lot a little 
bit like a heatsink on the crown because I   don't want any unnecessary heat going into the 
crown because it'll affect the heat treating get my neutral flame happening so what I want 
to do here on the boss is this is what most of   the heat on to the boss because I don't want 
to put any extra heat onto the tube you see   you see how I'm heating away from the crown 
is before on the flame it's pretty bright   it's kind of green that's because of the 
flux that's coming through the flame it's   part of my automatic flux ER so if I'm silver 
soldering or I'm brazing I've got flux on that go there you go okay this is the fixture which 
holds the braze ons and these are the new   cantilever bosses those go in there like that 
not sure if I got the right one on the right   side and that's the dummy axle it holds it 
holds the fixture in place so what happens   is this is holding these the brake bosses 
at the right distance off the axle because   the rim is a certain size if you get the 
brake bosses wrong then your brakes don't   work so I'm just making a couple marks so 
I know a way to scrape and sand and it's   the same thing again I just put my gloves 
on because this has got some sharp edges so that didn't take a whole long time and you can 
see how all the Silva soul is gone it's nice and   smooth it just needs sanding now I haven't touched 
the crown it's good Emery cloth inch wide 80 grit   that's what I like is a crosshatch I'm standing 
one way and then I'm saying the other rows so   I'm getting a crosshatch like that and then as 
you Bray's over the top of that on a microscopic   level it's all uneven although to the finger it's 
smooth that's what the Bray's likes to grab on to   okay I'm happy with that here in the boxes is 
the cantilever Bray's on they don't get used   much anymore but some customers still want them 
so you have to have a certain amount of offset on   these Forks so that you get the spacing right and 
the spacing from Center to Center 75 millimeters   if it's if it's too wide the breaks fall down if 
it's too narrow the breaks are still coming up   it's important to get the spacing right let's go 
to the mill I want to tell you that it's an inch   hole saw because the size of the fork blade 
is an inch and I've offset it certain amount   545 now it's offset so when I go to do the other 
side I have to offset it 545 now the other side so that's one side done I also want you to 
notice that on the whole so here it's at an   angle of seven degrees because that 
is the angle of the fork blade that   comes off in the future so I take out this 
and now I put it the other side like this that's my zero right there and now I'm gonna go 
five hundred and forty-five style the other side speaking of safety third what's first 
and second looking good going fast so   there she bosses and they be meited 
you can see how they're at an angle   of seven degrees and so what we need 
to do now is to take off the burner   I have a few little burrs on the inside I don't 
know if you can see that see little burrs so   I'll take this little round file I have a fixture 
here and this holds the candy bosses in place and   what I want to do is to check to see that I get 
everything right so if I move it a little bit if   I give it a little bit of wiggle I can I can check 
and see how how the boss is fit and it looks like   they fit pretty good I can't see any extra gaps 
around here so I say we're basically good to go   so what I'll do is I'll put a little bit of flux 
on there now you don't need a whole lot it just   wants to cover it what the flux does it protects 
the metal a little bit and it also helps the   braze in this case I'm going to use nickel silver 
nickel silver is a little bit stronger than the   bronze and it helps it to flow and what I'm going 
to do is I'm going to put a tack at the bottom on   one side and then I will nickel silver the other 
side if I just stop brazing one side sometimes   what happens is the fixture is gonna lift up and 
then and then your bosses aren't lined up anymore adding some oxygen if you can hear that 
now there's a hiss that's an indication   that it's a little bit too big so I'm 
closing down the oxygen and try that   I'm gonna tack one side so it doesn't 
move raise up when I do the other side music text it's part of being a fussy fan game 
which is a hashtag I'm going to the   next okay so one size done we'll 
go back to the first side that ikat and that's it so when I 
pull off the chair there on I'm gonna show you here how to align a fork I 
made all these all these fixes well I didn't   make the candy pills but I need other things 
lots of holes this is back in 85 when every   friend every frame bill that was making Forks what 
this one does it shows you how the fork is aligned   as compared with the with the steer tube so the 
axle is 100 millimeters so the spacing needs to   be a hundred and one millimeters it's next two 
millimeters so that it always slides over the   axle if I measure this you can see that it's 98.5 
so I need to pull this out a couple millimeters   and this was designed so that this shelf is at 
the right height and I can put my knee here and   then I can give her a little bit of force and I 
just want to pull it a little bit I'm lining a   friend before this is what I used to tell my class 
it's the two F's its force and finesse and maybe   it seems like like like they don't go hand in hand 
but need force to pull but you need a little bit   of finesse Oh a lot of finesse as well because 
you pull a little bit and if it doesn't go away well we're at 100.3 I don't want to pull more than 
that so I'm gonna see that's good so that's the   first stage of alignment and getting the forks 
of it on the dropouts they are equidistant in   the center line and what I've got here is just 
a piece of alloy put that on the fork blades you   eyeball from this level to here and that tells 
you if the forks have any sort of an epic twist   okay so this side is a little bit higher so I 
can either pull the right side back or pull the   left side forward so maybe I'll do a little 
bit of both so I'm coming back on this one okay well I'm going to call that good now what 
we have to make sure is that each leg is the   same distance from the crown so that's what 
this fixture does put it in here and it's a   little wider than 100 millimeters you see how 
it's equidistant on each side and then if you   if you want to double-check the fixture you 
take this off and you put it on the other way   this is how you know if you fix just good and the 
fixture is good because it's right in the middle   so that fork is basically aligned thanks for 
watching I appreciate that maybe you'll want more you

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