Tyler: Hey, it’s Tyler with Lowbrow Customs (triumph chopper) . Today, we are in my home workshop in my garage and we’re going to be mounting a fender on this unit triumph bobber, which is Todd Mueller from Lowbrow, our motorcycle tech who many of you may know at least from YouTube and other places. This is his bike and winter’s coming and we’re going to get this fender mounted up get this bike out of my garage and make room for my projects. The fender we’re going to be mounting is a Gasbox 16-inch fender. The 16 inch refers not the tires, not the outside diameter of the tire but the rim size so, this is like a 16 by 5 inch, or something tire that Todd has mounted on here and this fender has the profile and radius, so it’ll fit quite nicely. Other things we’re going to be using, well, these parts here from Gasbox. These are machined fender strut lowers, or you could use them for anything but they’re great for making custom fender struts, custom sissy bars anything like that and it’s a perfect fit for half-inch rod, it makes it really nice easy finish look, very helpful when fabricating.
We’ve got our Lowbrow Customs DIY strut kit, (triumph chopper) which we’ve made for a dozen years or more and then some different tabs, this quarter inch thick steel deal lower fender mount tab, which is also useful for all types of things, and we also have a couple of our fender mount tabs for ribbed and curved fenders and we have different styles and varieties of these available. What I can tell you about these fab parts is that they’re huge time savers. I’ve got my old Atlas craftsman lathe over there.
I can make any bungs and do make all sorts of things. However, the amount of time it takes me to turn drill tap all kind stuff each individual bung, it’s way more cost effective to spend a few dollars on a bung. Same thing making some of these this bracketry. While I can do it in my shop here, it takes way more time than the 20 bucks or whatever this bracket costs that I personally, spent a lot of time designing and put a lot of thought into it. They work well, they save a lot of time and frustration and it’s a lot of fun to be able to figure out how to use these components to mount your fender or finish that bike of your dreams. Follow along, I’ll show you one way to do it and we’ll see how it goes.
The first thing you want to make sure is completed before you go to mount your fender is that your wheel for one that it’s the tire you’re going run. Unless you have a ton of gobs of clearance from your fender to your tire, you really need to make sure this is the tire you’re running. I just checked the air pressure and inflated this to 30 PSI, make sure that we are around at least the pressure it will be run at. Todd delivered this bike to me as a roller already and he’s got the rear wheel spaced left to right inside the frame.
That’s also extremely important. You can see on this (triumph chopper) he’s got the chain on here, that’s also useful one. He used it to make sure his wheel was aligned properly and two, the first thing we’re going really do is cut a chain relief in the fender because this chain runs so close to the tire and it would definitely hit the fender and when we’re centering that fender and getting ready to mount it, I want to make sure that the chains not pushing on it, we’re not fighting anything. You want that fender to be able to be adjusted and moved wherever we want it. To prepare I went ahead, and I took a piece of hose.
This is a one inch outside diameter piece of hose. I’ve used a chunk of old garden hose in the past, I’ve even used a normal 530 drive chain laid across the tire. That gives you really tight fender clearance though. The purpose of this is to hold the fender in place, it gives you the proper even spacing instead of trying to hold the fender up while your tack welding things.
It just doesn’t work. I just used a little bit of duct tape, which I ran out of. I just want some electrical tape, made sure it was nice and secure, the tube is centered on the tire and that gives us just a little support when we’re mounting the fender. The first thing I’m going to do to figure out where to put this chain relief is slide the fender in place. Now, there’s a lot of different ways you can mount the fender as far as how short or how long it is et cetera.
I had a discussion with Todd since this is his bike and this is what I would do with it as well. I’m going to basically rotate the fender forward until it is just shy of the bottom frame rails. The purpose for this is that say, the bike is finished and it’s four years from now and for some reason you ride up a curb or you’re going over rough terrain or something. You don’t want that fender to be hanging below your frame because that’s going get smashed, right into your tire. I like to keep that fender up above the frame rail. I’m just eyeballing it right now, and I just slide it and it’s sitting on that that piece of tubing and I’m not worrying about side-to-side location or anything now.
I basically just move it where it’s a little above that bottom of that lower tube. That’s essentially where that fender is going to sit. We’re not going to cut it shorter. You could if you want your fender really short, you can cut it off whatever. This is going to be run full length. With the chain relief, you got to think when you’re riding that chain flexes quite a bit not necessarily under load when you’re
on the throttle, but when you back off that whole chain really undulates. I want to give a good safety margin for sure. Probably an inch and a quarter maybe over the chain just to be safe. What I’ll end up doing is just marking out a profile here and then taking the fender off and, on the bench, drawing the line out little bit. That’ll give me a cut line. Right now, I’m just roughly getting an idea of where this will be. The other thing I’ll point out is it’s you don’t want a sharp corner. I’m going to cut this with just an angle grinder, but you don’t want to leave a sharp point in there.
You want to have a nice radius because if you have a sharp edge it will crack. That’s where vibration will end up leading into a crack and cause you a lot of grief. At the top of this I’m going to actually match the angle of that chain as well just to follow that line. Basically, that’s all we’re going to do. I’m going to cut this over far enough that it’s about equal with the tire on our (triumph chopper).
The chain does have a little side play in it too, but in this case the tire so close that it would heat that before it would hit any of the remaining fender and we’ll end up radiusing this corner a little too just on the belt sander. Now I’m going to take the fender, throw it on the bench, draw my line and go ahead and cut that relief, clean it up. It should only take10 minutes at most and then we’ll move onto mounting the fender. One thing i think is worth mentioning to you guys, this is just as of late, any time i’m grinding cutting metal in with dust, i’m making surei pick this little guy up, a face shield and also just some of the 3m little masks.
I’m not going to the mask for this because it’s such a small amount but when i had a cat scan recently from a motorcycle rack, and there was stuff in my lengthy called broken glass, but it just means there’s something in your lungs that’s foreign. I’m sure it’s abrasive grinding compound and dust and whatnot. I do this as you know as a hobby, not full-time or anything and it still is enough, but, well, I better get this to keep that dust out of my face a little more wear masks et cetera and i just mention that because it’s minor deal to have that little bit protection on our (triumph chopper).
Really for me, i don’t want to end up having some frickin lung problems when it could be stopped so easily and don’t but i don’t want to get there. These days i always wear hearing protection. This also helps just keep all the grit and stuff off your face keeps little cleaner, but it’s something i thought worth sharing for those of you out there who are doing metalwork in your garage. I’m going go ahead and mark this line out. I’m just going to use a standard grinder with a cut-off wheel holding it at the angle that’s equal to the arc of the fender and i’m going to cut this out really quick. The one thing this where iwant to keep a larger radius, I’m going just cut a flat across and then i will probably use this little guy, little die grinder, pneumatic die grinder and get that radius in there. You could use a Dremel, you could hand file it, there’s lots of options.
Again, i don’t want to cut and have a hard corner there because almost for sure we’ll get a crack there eventually. (triumph chopper) I’m going to clamp this to the table so that it doesn’t move so much. (triumph chopper) all right. I got that. That initial cut went really quick. This is a piece of scrap. I used that die grinder to clean up that big radius and to just take the burr off the edge off real fast. I’m going to take this over. I’ve got a belt sander in the garage here which is a very useful tool. I’m just going to go ahead and hit the face of this, smooth that all out really nice.
Give a little radius the rearend that should be good to go. You could also use a die grinder–I’m sorry, angle grinder with a flap disc on it which is essentially overlapping sheets of sandpaper. You can also just do this by hand. Take a file and smooth it out, sand it. There’s lots of ways to do it. I’m using the tools i have but there’re both faster nicer ways to do it and slower nice ways to do it as well. I’ll go ahead and clean this up and get back to mounting it. [music] i went ahead and cut the chain relief. I actually widened it a little bit more, brought it inbound a little bit more than in my original line and it seems fine now. The nice thing, once all the mounts are done, we’ll take a look at that again and you could always give ita little more breathing if necessary.
Because i was going to be working in this area, i went ahead and pulled off the oil tank and just flipped the seat up out of the way. Gives myself a little more room to work. Leaving the battery box in place even though I’ll remove it once i get further along to weld. I’m leaving that and the chain and things in place because it’s easy to forget what parts aren’t on the bike when you’re working at it. When i go to make fender struts, et cetera, i just want to keep everything together. That’s necessary to make sure I don’t have any interference issues. The fender, we slid it in place here and then threw some electrical tape around the fender. It’s not super secure but it holds it pretty snug so i can actually shift it left to right in such as needed. A good way to tell when the fender center from the back you can just visually look but it’s also using your fingers to feel the gap that it feels that it’s the same (triumph chopper).
It’s a quite accurate way to do so. You can fancy and try and measure everything if you want but honestly, if you start something long enough and you’re not sure if it’s center or not it probably is, meaning if you really can’t tell but it’s pretty centered here. I’m feeling above the cut area obviously just at the fender wells. This is pretty much where it needs to go. I’m going to do a couple of things to help me visualize for the first mount, I’m going to do is this upper mid fender mount here which is going to be welded to the seat post tube. We’re going to use this low brow curved fender mount for curved fenders.
Something i already did here as well is really quick i just took a little bit off of these bungs on my belt sander. The radius of different fenders, different types of fenders will vary of course. These bungs sat pretty nice but there’s a little gap so i just took a bit of that material off. They sit really nice and flat. When i weld them, I’m not feeling a large gap or anything. To figure out where my bracket is going to go side to side, I’m going to give myself some visual reference points, a really easy one. It’s simply going to be to mark the centerline of the seat post. Sorry, of the seat cross member. Using just a standard tape measure in between the frame rails I’m at seven inches exactly. Three and a half inches. I’ll go ahead and make a sharpie mark. That’s just a good indicator showing me right where the center of that tube is. Actually, that brings up a good point. Something with certain bikes, like these old triumphs, you have to keep in mind is that the wheel isn’t necessarily centered perfectly between the frame rails.
On a triumph, the tires actually shifted slightly away from the chain side. The decision you have to make is do you center the bracket to the fender or to the frame of our (triumph chopper)? Or do you split the difference? Sometimes making something that is perfectly centered will actually look like it’s off. What i tend to do personally is default to where i just think it looks the best. Even if you measure and it’s off by an eighth of an inch, if it looks better there, that’s where i would go for. Before i get ready to actually position this and then tack weld the bungs to the fender I’m going to go ahead and mark this bracket. It comes over-length. This part is longer than need be potentially, so it could be used fora variety of fitments. What I’m going to do, I’m going to a lap weld where this bracket it’s going to come up under that cross tube and I’m going to weld on both sides of it. It’s a very strong weld. You could always cut it and butt it to the face of the tubing, but in this instance, the fender is close enough there, it’s right at the bend.
It wouldn’t be nearly as strong; it’d be a total pain in the butt. I’m just going to go ahead and give myself a sharpie line. Now i know this is going to be cut off and this piece i’ll go ahead and just clean up and get ready to tack weld. I’m going to tack weld the bungs to the fender, which will hold the bracket in place and then i will go ahead and tack weld the bracket to the frame, make sure i get probably three good tacks on everything, move on to the next mount and then the bungs will be finished welded to the fender when it’s removed and then the brackets will be finished welded then as well. All right, I’m going go ahead and mark my lower tab as well, get that cut prepped at the same time I’m doing the upper tab, that way i can get both tack welded in place. I’m going to be using one of these lowbrows (triumph chopper) lower fender mount tabs. Quarter-inch steel. What I’m going to do here is add a half-inch long five 5/16 18 threaded bungs.
The way this fender will end up being mounted is all mounting points. We’re going to weld bungs to the fender. The brackets will bolt directly into those bungs, and there’s no hardware on the inside of the fender because otherwise, you can drill holes in your fender and through bolts or even run the hardware through the fender into a bung. I don’t like that because I’ve done that before and then I’ve been on road trips or cruised around locally, it doesn’t even matter. If you have one of those bolts back out and start rubbing your tire, runs a groove into it. Now, you’ve got to pull your whole rear wheel to tighten up your fender mount which is just a ridiculous amount of work that you shouldn’t have to do. This style of mounting gives you easy access to all your bolts. Lock tight when you do final installation anyway, but you could throw a wrench on it if something is loose and tighten it right back up and it’s really easy.
We removed the battery box here because i knew it wasn’t going to be inthe way for this tab and it was in the way for me to visually see how long i needed this tab and also where to center it. I’m going to do a similar style weld that i’m going to do for the upper tab and it’s going to be a lap joint where this butt up under the tube and then it’s going get welded on both sides, very strong and it will be hidden behind the battery box anyhow.
This is pretty straightforward. I need to seat the bun flat against the fender, slide it up until it’s butting against this cross tube, and all I’m doing now is marking the tab so i know where i want to cut it. It’s the proper length and ready for welding. One thing i might mention is that I’m going to position that bottom tab in this direction, so the hardware is easy to get to. If it flipped this way, the bung will be a little higher up on the fender, but it’s going to be a lot more difficult to really get a wrench in there and remove that bolt. I made a little mark here where I’m going to just take, I’ll draw a line on there, give myself a little better visual reference. I’m just going takethe grinder cut that to the length i needit, deburr it and get the welder set upand get ready to get all these guys tack welded in place.
(triumph chopper) all right. We’ve got both ofthese mounting brackets cut to the proper length. You couldjust hold stuff intact well that i’ve done it plentyof times but it’s nice to spend a short amounttime figuring out clamps or magnetsor something to hold them. It just makes life a lot easier. This is a nice clamp, one i pickedup recently, it’s got swivels on it. It’ll clamp tubing itwill clamp flat, it will clamp a combinationsuch as in this case. What i’m going to do on thisis hold this mount in place. I decided i’m going tocenter this fender mount to the fender, which is slightlyoffset from the center point i drew on this crosstube, but i think it looks better and oncethe center mark is removed. It looks centered, i think it lookswrong if i line it up to the frame. Unless i’m just lookingat the centerline of the fender and personallyjust eyeballing it though you can dowhatever you want but this will hold this in placefor when i tack it and it’s going to holdthe bracket to the cross member and then also i’ve got to make sure it’s sitting forwardagainst the fender when i clamp it, that it doesn’t pull away.
I have a little difficulty today. I had a broken wrist and just gotmy cast off of week and a half ago so i’m still not really beable to use my left hand properly. Side to side brackets good. I’ve got a goodcontact where the bungs are sitting flush against the fender. There’s a slight gap there, but it’ll be filled in with weld. It’s no problem atall and the brackets firm up against the cross membertube. I think that is good. I’m going to unclampthe lower one and then recheck and probablytriple recheck that my fender is at thisend and over here that it’s centered onthe tire that space is equal on both sides, and then i’ll just go ahead and get tacks on the bungs as well as the from the bung to the fender and then from the bracketsto the frame.
Then i’ll remove the clamps and get some nice heavy tacks on there and we’ll move along to the fender strutsbefore finish welding everything. This one’s a little tricky justbecause getting it centered it’s a little harder to geta good line of sight on it. This is when i’ll definitelywant to have it in position. I’ll check multiple timesbefore really welding. The clamp i’m using, a couple clampsdown at the bottom these are just cheap regular tension clamps youcan pick up at any hardware store. Good for light-duty work like this. They’ll just hold this inplace for me until i tack it.
I honestly don’t havenearly enough style of clamps here in my home workshop. A variety of clamps and magnets, you can get really creative forholding work pieces and it makes life easierwhen you actually go to the final mile and geteverything welded. Another clamp here that willhold the bung against the fender. It’s looking pretty good. I’m going to go and getthe welder setup and i’ll give this one last checkagain before i tack weld. All right, everything’s clampedin place, triple checked that the fender gap isthe same all the way around, that the mounting bracketsare perpendicular to the frame rails, that everythingcentered on the fender. It’s all clamped inplace ready to go. I’m going to go aheadand tack weld everything. It might be a little tricky to getinto some spots but even getting a couple– you know want to makesure they’re decent tacks, but then you can always move the clampset cetera to get a little heavier tack with some fill rod if ican’t get it in certain areas. Get this (triumph chopper) going.
[music] got two good tacks on eachof the bung to the fender. I’m going to go aheadand get the bracket tacked, remove this clamp, see if i can get a third tack then oncethat’s out of the way on those bungs. [music] i think i’ll go aheadand throw finish weld across that mean bracket becauseit’s in a good area. I’ll crank the amperageup a little on the welder. [music] cool. That worked out well. It’s easy to get to. I’m going to throw a bead, a full weld across the other side where the bracketmeets that tube once the fender’s off, but that top mount is good to go and i’ll get the bottomone all mounted up. [music] all right. That went well. I got a good finish weldaction on each of the brackets to the frames, the bungs areall tacked solidly in place. I’m going to leave thisas is for now, going to leave the fendereven taped in place. I’m going to moverearward, and we’re going to work on the fender struts and get those all set up before taking it all apart and doing allthe finish welding.
All right. These mounts are more or less done. We are moving on tothe fender struts. I’m going to use these gasboxmachined fender strut lowers. They don’t come with hardware. These are just somehardware laying around, some one inch long 5/16s-18 thread. The easiest way to startvisualizing this pretty quickly is to bolt thesecomponents in place. On a triumph here, this is a little tricky getting the nutin behind there. There we go. That wasn’t so bad. I’m not going to go nuts onthis, but i’ll snug it up a little, so it doesn’t move too much on this. You could see there’sthat nice fender strut lower with the lowbrowcustoms diy strut kit. It gives you two pieces of half-inchround bar, round stock, mild steel as well as stainless steelhardware and an assortment of bungs. What’s nice about thesegasbox strut lowers is they’re machined fora half-inch material. It’s a really nicefit, or you could braze this lower mount inplace, or you can weld it. In this case, we’re just going to weld it.
This allows you to startlooking at the lines of your fender struts, getting an ideaof where you wanted to sit. I’ve popped the seat backdown, just to help with that. Again, this is todd’s bike, and i know where he wants his struts because idiscussed it with him already. It’s going to be angledback to around on the one o’clockposition approximately. Doing the first side, to me, always seems really easy because we’re going just make ithappen, get everything tacked up and cut, but then it usuallytakes quite a bit longer on the other side becauseit’s trying to match that. It’s not so bad on a project likethis because the other strut lower bolts into the same place on thislowbrow customs triumph hardtails. I already got the fenderstrut holder in place. We basically will need tomake sure we get the bung on the fender on the exact samelocation to make the rod match.
What we’re going to dofor the fender following with the theme of whatwe did for the rest of the mounts, i don’t wantto have anything that you have to through bolt and havea knot on the inside. It would be a little tightclearance and everything. We’re going to end up using one ofthe half-inch long threaded mounts.
These are 3/8-16 threaded bungsthat comes with the strut kit. We’re going to usethis counterbore along with the hardware thatcame with the kit. When you thread these together, what’s going to end up happening is the half-inch long bung isgoing to get welded to the fender. This strut is going to needto be bent and cut to length, and it’s going to be weldedto the counterbore bung. When you unbolt on here and pullthis bold out, that strut can be removed, and then we’llduplicate that on the other side. First thing i’m goingto do is figure out the placement of thisbung and just tack it in place, and then we’ll go ahead and put a slight bend inthe fender strut material. In this case, what i’m goingto do is take a sharpie, just make a mark where it’s abovethe chain, and then i’m simply going to clamp this in my viseand give it a little elbow grease there, a little muscle, and just bend it slightly. It’s one of these operationswhere less is more.
It’s like i’ll probably have totweak it two or three times to get it just to the right location, and then i’ll cut it to length. Don’t cut it to length first because you’re going to mark it and cutit, bend it and then it may be tooshort, and then you’ve wasted that piece of material. I’ll go ahead and mark my locationwhere this half-inch bung should go on the fender, half-inch ductbung and tack that in place, and then we’ll go ahead, and we’llbend this rod and get it all situated, tacked in place and thenmove onto the other side. I’m going to clean off thisfender very quickly using angled die grinder witha little scotch brite. [background noise] that will do. This is going to be really simple.
Essentially, i’m just goingto move the fender struts to where it looks like it should go, get out of the way, hold the bung where i thinkit should go, where i’m going to vertically centerit on this flat skirt part. Let’s see if this little clampwill just give it– that will hold. I’m going to go ahead and tack thatand tack that and pull that upper bung in place and start figuring outthe angle for the bend of the rod. [music] i was about to just do a littlefusion tack on that, but what i’m going to do before thatis get the bend in that rod.
It’ll make it a little easier. Throw three tacks on that fornow just to hold it in place. Went ahead and snuggedup that counterbore bung which is what the strutwill be welded to. You can see that it is sittingoutside of that right now. All i’m going to do is give myselfsome sort of reference here. I’m just looking at it. It’s morevisual than anything about where that bend takes place, so i’m going to let this come up a little and thenbend it so it comes in at an angle. You could like them straighterand do a sharper angle, but i think it looks better witha bend toward the bottom. I’m looking at it. I know it needs to come in five five degrees or 10degrees at most or so.
I’ll this over the device, just going to clamp it in and giveit a little bend. I’m going to go ahead and thesevise jaws have a little channel in them to hold a roundstock vertically right there. All i’m doing is clampingit right at that mark. I don’t know if that bent it enough. I’m going to get myselfa little cheater bar. Let’s do that. You could heat this up, cherry red, easily and bend it, but i feel lazy soi’m not going to do that. I’m just going to graba piece of tubing, and it’ll give a lot of leverage wherei can bend this easily. We’ll take a look at this. Just going to get a slight bend. It’ll need more, but i like to checkmultiple times so i don’t over bend. It needs to come overquite a bit more. Almost right on. It needs to come this wayabout a 16th of an inch.
Looking pretty good. Got a nice gradual bend right there. If you heat it cherry red you can get a tighter bend right there, but i think this will work out quite well. It’s there. We need to have right out there. It feels a little weird with the seplastic soft drawers in there too. It’s got a lot to give. I’m trying to get a feel for when it’s actually bending. It’s right on. Took me a few attempts thereto slightly tweak that to get the bend in it right hereto where it will line up.
Now what I’m doing is I’m going to take a look, make a mark, cut this to length. I’d way rather cut it slightly cut it too long where i can dress it on the grinder with a grinder, belt sander, whatever. What i want is that to be a nice firm touch under there. Potentially even with a little bit of a cope to it. I might cut it a little long and then slightly grind a depression in it so it’ll sit nice and snug there. You don’t want to pushing upward pressure. You jam it in place because then once it’s welded, it’s going to be pushing pressure on that fender. You want everything to be happy and free, all your mounts. The fender should just fall in where it gets mounted, bolts go home, it’s all good. If you’re pulling, you’re fender to get a bolt in, i guarantee you’re going to get a crack in that fender later on. You don’t want any tension stored in there.
How To Install A Rear Motorcycle Fender On a Triumph Chopper
This fitment process, it’s worth taking a little extra time on it. It’ll save you grief later with your finished bike. The fender painted, et cetera, and you have a mount break. It’s a total pain in the butt. I’ll go ahead and mark this. Make sure i bend facing in the right way. I think it’s going to be about there. I’m going to cut about3/16th of an inch longer that i think it’ll need. I might even cut slightly about the line i made. What i’m thinking is i might dish the end of that rod a little so it hugs that bung nice, and i don’t have too much to fill in with welds.
I’ll take this over the Vise and use the grinder with a cut-off wheel and just cut it to length. [music triumph chopper] we’ve got this firststrut and nothing’s tacked yet, but i’ve got this in place. This is the first one that I showed bending with the cheater bar that was a little too large of an inside diameter. It made just too gradual of a bend, and i did not like it so I threw that one away. The other half of the thunderstruck piece was long enough so i just tried making a new one and i really liked the way this looked. I’ll show you here when we do the other side. I grab my oxyacetylene. I did go ahead and heat this up and did a bend which once it’s hot happens very easily right at the end of the fender strut. I went ahead and i coped the end of the strut using my little die grinder. You could use a grinder. You could use a rat tail file, whatever you got. What i was mentioning earlier about the tension, i have to lift up on this to get it to slide past the lip of the cope, but you can see that it moves freely.
This is basically ideal. There’s not a gap for welding or barely, but there’s no tension on that strut. This is good to go. I’m going to tack weld that in place, and then move over to the other side, measure back, locate where the other bung goes, bolt this piece in place and do the exact same process but spending a little extra time looking from above, behind, everywhere to make sure that the struts match each other so it looks and clean when it’s done. I’ll you the process of bending with heat as well. This is really thin filler rod for this tricky tack. [music] moving onto the right-hand side, the most difficult part of this side is just going to be locating this bung on the fender in the proper location. It’s not really that difficult. It’s just I’m going to pull some measurements, clamp it where i think it is, and really just eyeball. Just look from above, from behind. Taking my time to make sure it’s where i believe it should be.
I’ll tack well that in place and the rest of the process is the same. When i go to bend the rod, I’ll go ahead and show you guys the process using oxyacetylene to make the bend a little easier. Almost done. It’s just like 7 5/16 roughly. [music] relics in the ballpark. I need to measure the distance up. It’s quarter inch up. [music] all right. I’ve got that bung tacked on.
I bolted up the lower strut mount. It’s always a good idea to check before you bend so you get the proper angle. Don’t overbend. This triumph with stock wheel space and the wheel is further to this right-hand side which I mentioned when i was doing the brackets up here and had centered them to the fender which was slightly different than centering to the frame. When i put this straight piece of half-inch rod in here, it’s a quarter inch further or closer than it was on the other side, not a problem whatsoever. I just need less of a bending this piece and that’s good to note because otherwise I might over bend it. It’s easier to bend once since I tried to unbend something. I’m going to go ahead and show you guys and gals how to bend this using some oxyacetylene.
To bend this using some heat, i did put a little mark showing me were. When this is slid into the bottom, the little strut piece that’s where the top of that ends. What i’m going to do is clamp this in my vise at that height because that’s where I want the bend to start. I did remove my soft jaws because they are plastic, and they would melt. If i heated it up with this clamped in there. This vise has a pretty hard knurled teeth to it, so we’ll make some marks on this which i don’t mind because that’s going to slip in to that bottom strut piece and be hidden. However, when i hold this piece to chamfer the top or do anything else, i’ll put the soft jaws back in because i personally get irritated when i marrow up a piece of material I’m working with.
Oxy-acetylene setup. It’s pretty common. Pretty affordable. I bought mine off craigslist years ago for probably $150, $200. All i’m going to dois light this torch. I’m going to heat the local area where i want the bend to be. I’ve got this small piece of one-inch tubing that i will simply slip in over it and bend. Once it’s cherry red, it bends very easily so it won’t take very much force. [music] you can see the dull cherry red there before it cools too much. I think that’s probably about all i need. Saw how easily that bent versus cold? I’m going to go check the fitment real quick see if it needs an adjustment. [music] everything is now in place and tack-welded all the mounts, fender struts, everything. The next step is to unbolt the fender struts, unbolt the fender remove that. I will then finish weld the the two brackets that are welded to the frame and i will finish weld the bungs on the fender and the fender struts at the bench and that’s it.
Bolt it back together and we’ll be done. I’ll take this thing apart and get to finish welding. [music] something i’ll do really quick. This should be no problem. For now, I’ll just put an l and an r in marker, left and right for these fender struts. They’re really only going to line up one way anyway. If there are super similar in what they might fit, better one way than the other, but in this case, I’m sure they’re different enough that they’re going to fit one direction anyhow. [music] all right. We’re all wrapped up. I finish welded the Bengson the fender, and all that jazz, and let it cool a little bit. Bolted it up. Everything fit right back up. One last little bit of advice. Well, especially this is stainless steel hardware, but really with any hardware. Throw a little anti-seize and never-seize on those threads before you bolt it back up. If you really put too much heat to bungs when you weld them, you might want to run a tap through them again just to make sure the threads are nice and clean.
But a little anti-seize will keep hardware from galling, especially after it’s been weld–these bungs have been welded on. Everything is done. Fender looks great, straight. It reassembled very nicely because those strong tack welds kept everything in position for finish welding. I have one or two little spots I welded I wasn’t 100% happy with, but that’s what gives custom built things character. It’s that hand-built look. All in all, I’m pleased. Hopefully, Todd will be happy to get this bike back.
Wrap up any details. Blow it apart for any paintwork, polish, that kind of stuff, and get it on the road. Thanks for watching. If you like this video, click on the subscribe button below. Like it. Leave us comments. We actually read them and respond. Let us know what you like, what you’d like to see next. Anything we can do better, or anything we can do to help you out. Thanks very much. See you later. [music].