How to make a fiberglass mold for a motorcycle seat // Paul Brodie’s Shop

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it's child proof hi i'm paul brodie we are in my 
shop here in behind the camera is mitch we had   a comment it was on the acorn nut video and and 
colin wrote in he was saying that when i put on a   decal not decal someone told me that i should use 
windex because it allows you to move it round well   i don't know about that tip i've never tried it 
myself i'm unsure about it but he wanted me to   tell this and mention his name colin because if 
i do this which i'm doing now his wife will go   absolutely nuts that's the exact wording he used 
now i could make an assumption if someone told me   that their wife went absolutely nuts my assumption 
would be well maybe that's not such a good thing   but i think in this situation it kind of sounds 
like it is a good thing moving on we're going to   work on the cub today and i'm kind of excited 
about what we're going to do we're going to   make the pattern for the seat base i need to 
make these pieces here because i'm not going to   reuse well actually this one's 
welded on this one's bolted but   it's an eye lock i couldn't take it off without 
taking off the seat and i don't like this i want   it to come down and go in a bit like that because 
this is hitting the frame and it scrapes it so i   got my metal basically the same metal i've been 
using red sharpies since i was a teenager that's   how long i've been using them and i really think 
that red sharpies should sponsor this channel i've been thinking of contacting them as i'm moving the file i'm going away from the 
radius if i go straight i can make a notch so   i'm always going away a little bit as i mentioned 
over on the surface table you see how these are   basically at a right angle to the seat base as 
i put it down there it scratched the frame it's   no big deal because it gets hidden but i want to 
put an angle on there so we're going to go to the   go to the vise we're going to use the soft jaws 
and we're going to use a big orange hammer and   we're going to bend it over a little bit not a 
whole lot but enough so that there's an angle and   then straight if i do them both at the same time 
they both get exactly the same bend so here we go things are flying there we go they're both bent exactly the same so now we'll mount them on the bike 
and i have to figure out the height   and then we need a cross piece and that's going 
to get welded on or tic tac today anyway so so what i need to do now is to figure out the 
height of the cross piece because it's got to   be above the fender so this is not the shape 
this is just the mounting point so there we go so there that's that's what it 
looks like so it's pretty low   but maybe i'll make it a 
little bit higher than that look at that i want to put one piece in the 
middle just to join them up   to that'll kind of be the base 
baseline for starting the shape okay that just kind of sets the level 
and i know that these are perpendicular   because if you haven't had an angle you can't 
slide them over the bolts on either end so   that's what i was thinking so that's enough 
just to get started okay so welding's done   next stage okay so i've got 
16 inch aluminum welding rods   and i've got a hot glue gun nothing fancy so 
what we need to do is to come up with a shape   and the shape is going to come around and i 
want it to it'll match approximately the contour   of the hoop here and i also want it to come up 
over the fender and it's going to be a little   bit longer seat not a two-person seat really 
that comes to him it's a a solo seat there's   going to be a little hump at the back but we're 
only working on the base now so what i can do is   i can i can glue it right onto the seat base 
onto the to the loop it won't affect the paint   because i'll put it right onto the masking 
tape here let's just see what happens here so this is easy to modify because 
you can cut it out you can re-glue   there's a lot of things you can do with this 
it's not just you do it and it stays like that   easy to modify so we're looking for a shape 
i think you want to have it about right there oops oh it's quite a bit okay so what i'm going to do now i'm going to 
anchor it to here put put a piece across here and the glue sets pretty quick because the 
aluminum wicks away the heat quite nicely okay so we're starting a structure   you can see it's got a little bit of 
of stability to it just a little bit so so see that's kind of a nice shape see that that 
curve at the bottom there how it comes around like   i kind of like that and then if it came in more at 
the back and then went up and over that might work because then it would it would 
tend to hide this a little bit okay so can you see how the shape you start 
to look for lines so what we're defining here   is the bottom of the seat what the shape 
is looking at it this way how it contours   to the frame fits on the bike and then we're also 
looking at what it looks like from the top as well   so that's what we're working 
on and then it has to have a   lip that comes down because when the upholsterer 
works on it he wants to have something that he can   he can tuck the norga hide or whatever 
fabric whatever it is up and under so   we're working on the shape so we're not using 
this as the shape we're using the bottom here   and i think it matches the tank kind of okay so 
it's going to get bigger because we're going to   we're going to build this up we're going to 
fiberglass over top of it and then we're going   to put some bondo on we're going to paint it wax 
it and that becomes the male mold i think i'm   pretty happy with with this shape so now i'm just 
going to fill fill things in that's my plan here so so i'm changing the shape here i'm 
putting in a lower profile for the   for the phone because that seems to be what   what we want and this is bronze rod so it's 
got a little bit more of a stiffness to it and see if we can glue that in right there 
is that gonna fit yeah look at that   yeah i like that better so we'll have 
i'll have a little bit extra foam in there okay well i think i got enough of the welding rods on here that it's 
going to hold up the masking tape   so let's put the masking tape on next i got 
a drop sheet this is what's going to protect   the rest of the frame and cycle parts from the 
fiberglass resin because it doesn't come off like   like a glue gun does it's very different if you've 
ever worked with fiberglass it sticks like crazy   so we need to offer some a bit of protection here so it all came off in one piece more or less okay i just put a little masking tape over there 
just to help protect it and then we're gonna put   masking tape right over this because the fire 
otherwise the fiberglass just leaks through   you can't have that so so so catalyst acetone i think this is an ounce and a half mat i 
think i like to rip it i don't like to cut it i'm just gonna make a mess on my floor here okay that'll be good for the first layer okay so i kind of estimate i know you 
can measure this out perfectly but i'm guessing here there we go 
taking them taking a gamble there here we go i'm going to wet the mat it's been a long time since i've done this i'm just putting on on two layers if you put 
on a lot of layers it starts to what's called   exotherm and you get a lot of heat and it's 
not a good product so you only want to do   a couple layers at a time usually if 
you need more layers you just go back so i don't need as much on this one because it's   going to settle into what 
i've already done there so let's see how this works so on top of this when this is all hardened up   i take out all the aluminum from underneath 
and then i i mount this on a piece of plywood   and then i put bondo over top smooth it all out 
so it's basically perfect and then that gets waxed   and that's what is the mold for the base so 
what you see here is a little bit crude but   with bondo and a bit of thyme you 
can you can do wonderful things i like working with 3d shapes and once this sets up this will become basically   pretty rigid and then you add bondo on top of 
that that adds its own own strength as well it's pretty strong so what sets off the resin is heat and 
light it's the combination and if you've got   ultraviolet that sets it off even faster 
so that's why you should never fiberglass   out in the sunlight or even if you're under an 
awning because the ultraviolet it bounces in and   it'll it'll it'll set the resin off much faster 
so i've done some fiberglassing and i i did have   a mentor for a while his name was george and he 
was well he's in his 80s now he still runs the   store and it looks like he's uh he's been in 
the fumes for a long time but he's a good guy okay i think we're basically done here   we hope you've enjoyed this episode of 
making a seat base or a seat based mold and   i think it's going to work out quite 
fine a bit of a bit more work to do here   thanks for hanging out in our shop 
here and uh mitch and i like coffee   if you buy us coffees much appreciated helps 
to fuel the channel take care see you next time

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